We liked Traverse City pretty much.  I was left in the car while the drivers bopped in to see an exhibit on Inuit Art (and came out with more unwieldy purchases), and then we drove out onto a long peninsula in the middle of Traverse Bay.  By far the best foliage we have seen the whole trip!  There was stopping at antique shops and wineries and apple stands (much glee expressed over the honeycrisp taffy apple), and finally, at the end of the peninsula I got to get out and run around at another lighthouse!  The beach here was very weird, kind of like wetlands but at a lake—Clare took many pictures of the bleak landscape: Beth and I were not impressed.  I saw a black squirrel though and that was very exciting! 

Back down the peninsula we went, driving along the coast to Manistique; we had hoped to see a church that had a couple of Tiffany windows, but it was locked.  What ever happened to the days when churches were open all the time?  The town seemed cool and worth a longer visit but time was short so we pressed on to Ludington in time for another great sunset and romp on the beach before finding a hotel. 

Friday morning, the last day of our adventure, we started with a tour of a pioneer village.  It is true most of these buildings had been moved here to save them, but we liked it all the same.  There weren’t many people so I got to run free—the roomies particularly enjoyed the fully decked out school house (Clare pointed out how the desks on one side were small for the little kids and larger on the other side for the big kids…hard to imagine one class with everyone!  They also liked the trappers cabin where there was a very nice woman tending the fire, and she let me smell all the animal skins…delicious!
 

As we made our way towards home, we stopped at an orchard we had gotten fabulous honeycrips from at farmer’s market, but they were GONE.  After passing a million orchards and apple sellers all along our trip, it became clear we had waited too long.  The nice man at the orchard dragged out a bushel of seconds and gave them the story about the weather and calcium, but there was no consolation to be had. 

Last on our agenda was a stop at the Beth’s childhood vacation spot which she had not seen in 20+ years.  We drove through the compound to the beach where I ran around and she collected a few rocks…a past time that engaged many childhood hours so we were told. 

Our last stop-and a bit impromptu-was at Warren Dunes State Park.  And guess who was waiting to say hello at the entrance?  Ray!  I was very surprised to see him somewhere other than the house.  We all went to watch the sunset and have a final swim-a wave crashed over me as I went for a stick; I was a little frightened and they all just laughed.

Then it was highways and traffic, but I just napped in the back and dreamt of our next adventure.

Yesterday we drove across the UP at its narrowest point, mostly through the Hiawatha National Forest.  We drove to a peninsula that juts from the north shore of Lake Michigan, to a town called Fayette.  In the state park are the remnants of a bustling smelting town taken over by the state in 1959.  Many building still stand, foundations of others, some with displays recreating period use, others showing the process of how they can discover original paint colors for example.  The great thing was, since it was off season, there were probably no more than 10 people there, even though it was only the second park we had to pay to enter.  And so, defying the 6 foot leash ban posted almost everywhere, I was let off to run loose, through the doctors house, up and down the stairs at the big house.  Here is a picture of the hotel which at one time had  a two story outhouse!   And a picture of the doctors house.  Although it was another beautiful day, and the setting was quite pristine, I thought I smelled the toxic sludge of smelting days gone by.  Still, a fabulous outing.

                                                                   

This is a cat made from hay bales!  I knew it wasn't real but was happy to bark at it anyways! 

There is a strong Native American presence all throughout Michigan, and I mean more than just casinos!

                                               

                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

On we drove, stopping at a beach just in time to catch a fabulous sunset, to have a good run, and do a little swimming back in the home lake.  It was a little wavy but I am getting used to it, although I don’t have that body surfing down just yet.  Stayed the night in Petoskey. 

When we got up today we did a little backtracking and drove a 20 mile stretch called the tunnel of trees, a narrow road that winds through hills and is mostly like driving through a tunnel of trees.  Foliage good.  A lot of houses for sale.



At the end of the road was a town with a bit of harbor, really just a beach with boat launch, but we took another long walk with some swimming and digging, and a lot of rock collecting.  Well, Beth collected, Clare photographed.  Back through the tunnel we went, enjoying it every bit as much on the return journey, pressing on to Charlevoix and a great quilt shop, finally stopping in Taverse City for the night.  Somewhere midday I heard talk of extending the trip an extra day so we don’t have to rush.  So much to do, so little time.

When I first heard talk of a cabin that slept 16 and cost a lot, I wondered what the roommates were thinking. And three nights?  Almost enough time for moss to grow.  Now that it is almost time to go, I think I could live here.  The cabin itself is amazing, clearly made by someone with great thought, care and skill.  Decorated over years with collections and hobbies and love.  The vaulted ceilings, the sound of the waves as you drift off to sleep, the star gazing coppola on the roof (stairs to same a bit treacherous and dark and I was a bit apprehensive). 

Hard to say what my favorite thing is….the bookcase that runs along the stairs and must ultimately be 20 feet tall?  The cabinet and drawer pulls made from lake rocks?  The 1902 Sears catalogue?  The stuffed bear (it is stuffed right?).  Good size grounds and on the shore, long, stepped rocks that extend far enough out into the lake for a small dog to play fetch and not drown.  Sunsets lovely.  Stars the best we have seen since Alaska.  And I haven’t even minded   the fires, a joy I do not share with Beth and Clare.

  

After leisurely mornings swimming (me) and drinking coffee (them), we have set out on some mini adventures—yesterday was the pictured rocks (I saw no pictures) and a couple waterfalls.  The best part for me was a long walk on a sandy beach, running, swimming, digging like a madman.  Sweet.  Today we went to a sculpture park and then to see the biggest waterfall so far, billed as the largest next to Niagara, but again, after the places I’ve been….

The weather has been perfect fall weather.  Sunny days, with that golden sunlight of October, blue skies, cool nights.  Perfect.  The foliage has been a bit of a disappointment, but I think it is Beth’s fault and not the trees.  Seems we are a bit late.  There are glimpses here and there of how good it was, and with what we have to work with, you can tell it was great.  But sadly, we missed the greatness.  I think they are still hopeful they will hit the sweet spot as we make our way home.

Here is a picture of Clare and I with a dinosaur....it's not real but looked cool!

 Sadly, we had to leave the cabin this morning, heading for the LP....but I am sure a few more adventures await!

 

Left Wisconsin for the UP yesterday, and while the foliage was lovely in Door County, it was pretty much past prime in Northern Wisconsin.  Undaunted, we made our way north, passing through small towns, all seemingly built on mining or mining support industries (let’s not forget timber—my nose tells me there isn’t an old growth tree to be had.  Most of the small towns have a cool building or two as mining took hold during the Victorian era.  In a nod to the natives supplanted, we stopped at a Native Amercian burial ground, situated on the shores of a a lesser lake, but as the day was sunny and the trees still beautiful, it seemed like an ideal spot. 

We pressed on to Camp Gibbs. Built by the CCC during the last great depression, and while Beth and Clare spoke of seeing CCC elements and hints of its former life, to me the asbestos and rotting wood told no story.

On we drove, through National forests, on winding roads, finally arriving at our next destination at the base of the Kewanee penisula, Carla’s Inn.  Hard to find on the side of a dark road, and when we arrived, we were greeted by a note and a key and an empty parking lot.  I saw Psycho.  Need I say more?  But when we woke up, the sun was shining, our view was into the rising sun over the bay, and the foliage was beautiful. 

We set off to drive the peninsula.  We saw mining remnants, and the homes of those whose fortunes were made on them.  We frolicked on the highest point between the Rockies and the Alleghenies.  We saw some waterfalls and lighthouses.  I swam in my second Great Lake.  We did a little off roading because what’s a vacation if an unpaved road or two isn’t involved?  We had an excellent fish dinner.  And when we returned to Carla’s, the parking lot was full!  Tomorrow we head east for 3 nights at the cabin that sleeps 16. 

This is one of the few remainng wall sconces in a mansion we toured; most of the others had been sold  
by the second owner of the home who was an

antiques dealer.

This is the Eagle River Falls.  We have seen quite a

few waterfalls but have been a little disappointed

after the Northwest Territories waterfall drive and Niagara

A forest of yellow after taking a wrong turn.



We drove east from Carla's yesterday and saw another great lighthouse as we headed to the "big" cabin.

And we were not disappointed!  More on the cabin, the sunset, the stars and the foliage later....off to see some sights!



Well, the holiday is off to a good start.  After a late start and an uneventful drive up here, we made our first stop just outside Sturgeon Bay.  We were at the mercy of the GPS as the roads got less populated and narrower.  When we finally got out of the car, we were at a little cabin!  And my fron yard was sand and tall grasses leading to the shore of our own Great Lake—Michigan.  It wasn’t long before we were taking a late afternoon stroll along the lake shore.  They were strolling, I was running.  Acting a bit like a mad man.  And so we were in for an evening of cabin delights—a fire, some reading, a little John Stewart and another stroll, thios time under a star filled sky.  I heard it rated a 7.  Not bad.

This morning we went for another walk on my beach, down to a couple of light houses.  I like a lighthouse as well as the next dog, and I feel I may be in for quite a few this trip….did you know the biggest concentration of light houses in the world is on Lake Michigan?  Don’t quote me, but it has come down in ancient dog lore.  The sun was shining, the water was calm, I ran, I fetched sticks.  Life is good.

The one thing we were not too impressed with so far was the foliage.  A bit blah.  We had imagined we might be a little early for Wisconsin, maybe a little late for parts of the UP; foliage is so hard to time perfectly.  So the plan for the day was to drive the peninsula into the famed foliage destination of Door County, and maybe see a lighthouse or stop at an orchard to buy some delicious honeycrisp apples.  We started our outing at a quilt store in Sturgeon Bay, heard about the quilt squares we had seen on people’s barns, and had a delicious alfresco meal at a local eatery.  Onto Door County.

So, the foliage was okay.  Up against stiff competition, we could only rate it a 6, but in a couple more days, that could change.  In Fish Creek we heard talk of a fall festival this weekend that is the busiest weekend in the town all year!  Only 4 hotel rooms left to be had!  Despite the foliage being just shy of peak, we were happy to miss the tourist hoards.  We like the roads to ourselves so Beth can weave back and forth as she gazes at this wonder or that falling down building.  We stopped at an orchard at the end of the peninsula, and while I could pass on the honeycrisps myself, I heard some ooohing and aaahing.  And I enjoyed the apple cider donuts and the peanut butter rice crispy treat.  Back down the peninsula, more foliage, another lighthouse.

Tonight, lovely fire and more fabulous stars.  Tomorrow we head to the UP, destination the shores of another great lake.  I heard the route planning and it includes all their favorites—cemeteries, waterfalls, old CCC crap, and of course, more foliage.  Off to a great start.

Update:  Foliage exploded overnight--up to an 8 with the best still ahead!

Barn quilt squares for Josie:

Adventures in Foliage

With the days growing shorter and the smell of chill in the air, the maps have come out and I am hearing talk of a ROAD TRIP!!  We know how these two are about the foliage--a little obsessive I'd say.  But when cabins, woods, waterfalls and shorelines are involoved, I am happy to indulge them.  In anticipation, I have begun reviewing photos and memories from past trips.....someday I think we will decide the best foliage and only ever return there.  Here are a couple photos to refresh your memories:

First, there were the golden aspens of the Rockies...pretty sweet I thought:

And then there was the much ballyhooed foliage of the northeast, beautiful in a different way:

And now we are off to see foliage in our own back yard--a drive around Lake Michigan, going up through  Wisconsin (with our first sceduled stop a cabin in Door County), up and over the UP, and then down through Michigan.  I've heard talk of a quest for the Honeycrisp, waterfalls, ghost towns--the usual.  Counting the days down.  And so our journey continues, in search of the best foliage.